There are two main reasons why people go to San Ponzo Semola, in the Staffora valley, on Sunday mornings. The more popular is the pilgrimage to San Ponzo’s cave. The other one is Maria and Davide’s vegan inn. To get to the cave you must cross a tangle of stone houses and then walk three kilometres uphill through the green wood. To get to the inn you have to cross the threshold of a pale grey gate. In June, the dazzling light hampers the vision: the gravel yard is a diaphanous fire where one can slowly recognize the features of a courtyard marked by a unique grace. Interior-exterior. Scent of mint and curry plant, buzzing bees. Humanity.
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